Back from surfing some cold ass waves in a state that is our most eastern geographically oriented in the U.S. Day 2 of the new swell we have here, been big but pretty chunky and hard to figure out. A couple buddies and I were driving today checking spots trying to find that magic spot, talking about the lengths we go to in our lives to chase waves. Kind of incredible to think about the journeys its has created for me, a landlocked kid who only went to the ocean a few times growing up. From frozen waves in the east and west to warm waves in Central America, the South Pacific, Hawaii and beyond.
It has been amazing and highly recommended to everyone to not forget about water in all its forms. its wild to think that my VT friends think I’m crazy to go all the way to the coast. It’s a “whopping” 3 hour trip and well worth the journey most times. Come on people!
Check this video out and get out in the water. It was filmed only using a GoPro which is a great little camera!